Papua Indonesia Bird of Paradise Quest

Sorong · Indonesia

Moderate12 daysAsia~£2,500 est.

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Overview

New Guinea's western half holds the greatest concentration of birds-of-paradise on Earth, and seeing them means joining a tradition that runs straight back to Alfred Russel Wallace. The itinerary splits between two worlds. On Waigeo in Raja Ampat you sit in a palm-frond hide before first light for Wilson's bird-of-paradise - a bird so improbably coloured, scarlet back, turquoise skullcap, spiralled tail wires, that it looks designed by committee - and for red birds-of-paradise dancing in the canopy. Then the Arfak Mountains above Manokwari, where homestay lodges run by Hatam families put you beside the bower of the Vogelkop bowerbird, architect of the most elaborate structure any animal builds, and the dawn display courts of parotias and magnificent birds-of-paradise. Cenderawasih Bay adds the world's most reliable whale shark snorkelling at the fishing platforms near Nabire. This is patient, pre-dawn, guide-dependent travel: hides are booked through village landowners and every fee helps keep forest standing. March to May and September to November are driest, and internal flights via Sorong and Manokwari need slack for delays. Twelve days with local guides, homestays, permits and boats runs about £2,500 excluding international flights. Bring a long lens and leech socks.