Mount Kenya Technical Climb

Nanyuki · Kenya

Extreme8 daysAfrica~£1,200 est.

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Overview

Everyone climbs Kilimanjaro; climbers climb Mount Kenya. Point Lenana at 4,985 metres is the trekkers' summit, but the mountain's real prizes are Batian (5,199m) and Nelion (5,188m), jagged plugs of an ancient volcano that demand genuine rock climbing on the equator. Most parties take the classic South-East Face of Nelion, around 18 pitches of sound rock, bivouac in the tiny tin hut on its summit, then abseil into the Gates of Mist to cross to Batian. In a single day you move from giant groundsel and lobelia moorland past the fast-dying Lewis Glacier, which has lost around 90% of its ice since 1900. Acclimatise properly on the walk-in through the Chogoria or Sirimon valleys; failure high on this mountain is almost always altitude, not difficulty. Season choice matters more than on Kilimanjaro: the south-facing routes come into condition from late December to early March, the north faces from July to September. A guided technical ascent over eight days from Nanyuki, with park fees, porters and a strong local guide, runs £1,200 to £2,500 - a fraction of an 8,000er apprenticeship, for a harder, quieter and more beautiful climb.