Georgian Military Highway to Kazbegi

Mtskheta-Mtianeti, Greater Caucasus · Georgia

Moderate4 daysAsia~£450 est.

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Overview

The 208 km Georgian Military Highway has carried armies, tsars and poets from Tbilisi over the Greater Caucasus since antiquity, and it remains one of the world's great mountain roads — now with excellent khinkali at both ends. Four days lets you drive it as a journey rather than a transfer. Stop first at Ananuri, the fortress-church complex mirrored in the Zhinvali reservoir, then climb through Gudauri's ski country to the Soviet-era Friendship Monument, its mosaic bowl hanging over a thousand-metre drop. Cross the 2,379 m Jvari Pass among mineral springs, and descend to Stepantsminda under the perfect cone of 5,047 m Mount Kazbek. The moment is Gergeti Trinity Church at first light — the 14th-century silhouette floating on its ridge with Kazbek's glaciers behind. Give the last day to the Truso Valley's travertine terraces and abandoned towers. The variables: this is the freight artery to Russia, so expect lorry convoys queuing towards the Larsi border and give them room on the hairpins; the pass closes intermittently in winter storms; and the Gergeti road is now paved, but Delica taxis will still race you up it. Around £450 per person with guesthouses and supra feasts.