Angkor at Dawn: Temples of the Khmer Empire

Angkor Archaeological Park, Siem Reap · Cambodia

Easy6 daysAsia~£700 est.

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Overview

You take your place by the northern reflecting pool in darkness, and slowly the five towers of Angkor Wat assemble themselves out of the pink sky — a sunrise that survives every photograph you have already seen of it. Then, while the crowds funnel into the main temple, you go the other way: to the Bayon, where 216 colossal stone faces half-smile from every tower, and Ta Prohm, left deliberately in the grip of strangler figs. Six days is the right length for the Khmer Empire done properly: the miniature carvings of Banteay Srei in pink sandstone, the river of a thousand lingas at Kbal Spean (a jungle walk, best in wet-season flow), sunset from Pre Rup's brick towers, and a day for Siem Reap itself — the excellent Angkor National Museum and dinner supporting Phare, the Cambodian circus. The Angkor Pass comes in one, three and seven-day versions — the seven-day costs barely more than the three, so buy it. Hire a remork driver by the day, or cycle the small circuit if you can face the heat. November to February is dry and 'cool'; by 10am any month you want to be in shade. Around £600–£800 for six days with a boutique guesthouse and two guided days.